The recent release of The Rolex Submariner: 1953-2023, a coffee table book by Nick Foulkes published by Wallpaper, has caused a stir in the watch community. While the book offers some fascinating insights into the history and evolution of the replica Rolex Submariner, the true revelations lie within its final pages. At first glance, these pages appear to be mere catalog entries, but they contain something far more significant: the official production numbers for various Submariner references. These figures, previously unknown to the public, are set to change the way collectors view and value vintage Submariners.
For years, collectors have relied on educated guesses to estimate the rarity of certain Submariner models. Now, thanks to this book, we have concrete data that clarifies how rare (or common) certain references truly are. This revelation is already making waves in the market, causing the value of some models to soar, while others may see their worth decline. Here’s a breakdown of some of the most intriguing pre-1980 Submariner references, along with expert insights into why these models are so highly sought after.
1953 Rolex 6204: The First Submariner
Released in 1953, the Rolex 6204 holds the distinction of being the first-ever Submariner model, and it remains one of the most coveted by collectors. According to the book, only 810 examples of the 6204 were produced, a figure that will undoubtedly add to its mystique and value. Often referred to as the “Bubble Back,” this model set the stage for many of the features that would become synonymous with the Submariner, including the black unidirectional bezel.
1954 Rolex 6200: The “Big Crown” Icon
The 6200 is legendary for its distinctive “Big Crown” design and for being one of the rarest early Submariners. The book confirms long-held speculations that only 303 units were made. This model is significant for a few reasons, not least of which is its gilt Explorer-style dial, a direct link to the origins of the Submariner. It turns out the Submariner was, in fact, an evolution of Rolex’s earlier Explorer model.
1954 Rolex 6205: The First “Mercedes” Hands
The 6205, another 1954 release, is notable for being the first Submariner to feature the iconic “Mercedes” hands and the first to have the word “Submariner” printed on the dial. A total of 2,881 units were produced, making it the first Submariner to break the 1,000-unit production mark. This model, also known as the “Small Crown,” was the foundation for many future Submariner designs.
1956 Rolex 6538: The James Bond Connection
Perhaps one of the most iconic vintage Submariners is the 6538, produced in 1956. The book reveals that 5,350 units of this model were made, but it’s the cultural impact of this reference that truly elevates its status. Worn by Sean Connery as James Bond in Dr. No and several subsequent films, the 6538 became synonymous with cool, and as expert Paul Altieri notes, “Bond didn’t just wear the 6538; he immortalized it.”
1958 Rolex 5508: The Last “Small Crown”
In 1958, the 5508 was released with a production run of 9,000 units, marking the point at which Rolex’s tool watches began to gain significant popularity. It was also one of the last Submariners without crown guards, a feature that would become a standard on all future models.
1958 Rolex 5510: The Rarest of the Rare
The 5510, also released in 1958, is among the rarest Submariner references, with only around 300 examples ever made. The final “Big Crown” Submariner, this model is a true grail watch for collectors. With its six-month production run and the introduction of the calibre 1530 movement, the 5510’s rarity and historical significance have pushed its value to astronomical levels. As Altieri puts it, “Rarity breeds reverence.”
1959 Rolex 5512: The First 40mm Submariner
The 5512, introduced in 1959, marked the first time a Submariner featured a 40mm case. With 17,338 units produced, it set the stage for the Submariner’s iconic size. Known as the “Steve McQueen” Sub, thanks to the actor’s association with the model, the 5512 remains one of the most beloved vintage Rolex replica watches. Versions with square crown guards are particularly sought after and fetch premium prices.
1962 Rolex 5513: The Affordable Classic
The 5513, released in 1962, is one of the most prolific Submariner models, with a production run of 151,449 units. Its relatively low price compared to other vintage models has made it a favorite among younger collectors, and despite its larger production numbers, its vintage appeal keeps it in high demand.
1969 Rolex 1680: The First Date Submariner
The 1680, launched in 1969, is the first Submariner to feature a date function, a feature that was controversial at the time. With 111,226 units produced, it was a turning point for the Submariner series. The 1680 also saw the debut of the Submariner in yellow gold, further cementing its status as both a tool and a luxury item.
1969 Rolex Comex Submariner: A Rare Military Special
The 1969clone Rolex Comex Submariner, produced exclusively for the French diving company, is one of the rarest and most coveted vintage models. With only 1,618 units made, these fake watches were never sold commercially, making them incredibly difficult to find today. If you manage to acquire one, expect to pay a premium.
1977 Rolex MilSub 5517: The Military Grail
The 5517, made in 1977 for the British military, is one of the rarest Submariners in existence, with only 539 units produced. It is renowned for its unique features, including serrated bezel edges, spring bars for NATO straps, and distinctive “sword” hands. As watch expert Jared Paul Stern notes, “There is just nothing cooler than the most military Submariner ever made.”
1979 Rolex 16800: The Bridge Between Eras
The 16800, released in 1979, bridged the gap between vintage charm and modern durability. With 81,694 units made, it introduced sapphire crystals and the calibre 3035 movement with a quickset date function. This model also became the first Submariner with a 300-meter depth rating, a standard that continues today.