One of the key points on our Baselworld calendar is to see what heritage re-release replica Longines has cooked up, and who boy, have they pulled out all the stops in 2017 or what. You’re taking a view of the Heritage 1945, and exactly on point interpretation of a mid-century dres’ watch. Based on a 1945 design called the Calatrava by collectors, this watch does everything correctly. Funnily enough, it’s just the cheap replica watch that Sunflower man illustrated as part of the Watercolor replica watches project back in 2015.
The 40mm steel case is simple, and not overly fussy, with a flat bezel just the right width and a slender-yet-functional crown. The mid-tan strap with a single line of reinforcing stitching in contrasting thread walks a perfectly straight line between dress and casual.
The real thing is the dial. For such a minimal layout, Longines has packed it full of sexy detail. Firstly, there’s the vintage velvet effect of the brushed copper-tone convex dial, then there’s the selected steel-tone applied hours markers and printed mid-century Arabic numerals, all of which contrasts with the long elegant leaf hands in blued steel. The small seconds subdial has a concentric circular finish, just to keep things interesting.
Oh, and the curved ‘Automatic’ text is a lovely touch. However, if I was being particularly critical I would like the seconds subdial a little lower down the dial. 1945 original was powered by the manually wound 12.68Z, but on this remake, Longines has conceded modernity with the inclusion of automatic L609.3.
There’s no doubt that one or two of these elements would make the Longines Heritage 1945 a compelling development, but all of them together make it a real winner. And the best thing is no date window.
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