Among Rolex sports watches, the Explorer is one of the simpler ones in history. With only a handful of models, there are few quirky variations, and its design has remained unchanged since its debut in 1953 with the 6350 model. By that time, the replica watch already had most of its defining features. It was based on a 36 mm stainless steel Oyster case, featured a black dial with 3-6-9 numerals, and was framed by a polished steel bezel. These features have remained unchanged for 57 years, with nearly half of the 1016 series being produced. 
In 2010, a significant change came with the introduction of number 214270, which enlarged the case to 39 mm for the first time. To say that this caused controversy among Explorer enthusiasts would be an understatement. It’s hard for die-hard like myself to consider anything that isn’t 36 mm a true Explorer. The more reserved size and understated personality are critical parts of what make this watch unique in the Rolex catalogue.
The two-tone Explorer is specific in that the bezel, crown, hands, applied dial markers, and central bracelet link are made of 18k yellow gold. The case and external links are made of steel. The oyster clasp is mostly steel with a gold “stripe” in the centre that visually matches the bracelet links. It is consistent with how copy Rolex usually executes two-tone watches, from Subs to Rolex Date justs. Nothing crazy here.
Another major design tweak and, by my reckoning, more importantly, you see here is the case size reverting to 36 mm for both the 124273 and the all-steel 124270. 124270. As far as two-tone watches go, this one is relatively understated. The two-tone won’t shout at you. It’s there when you want to enjoy it, but you won’t look like a minion in a bad ’80s movie. Don’t get me wrong, you’ll see the gold, but it’s a soft gold that feels right for our current moment.
The best thing about this watch is how comfortable it is. If you’ve never worn a 36 mm sports watch – Explorer, Oyster Perpetual, etc. – go ahead and try it on as soon as possible. It’s perfect for anyone with a wrist under 7 inches.
It is the all-steel version of Ref. 124273, a definite showstopper. If two-tone is the only issue with the 124273, go for this version and flush all your worries away. It’s the closest thing to a vintage Ref. we’ve come across on the market in years, and it’s probably the best value across the board in the replica Rolex lineup today at $6,450 (slightly less than its 39 mm predecessor). It is an explorer. It is 36 mm. It’s fantastic.
