Aesthetically, there is nothing more important to a watch than the dial. In addition to being responsible for displaying all relevant information, it gives the timer its own characteristics. Get it wrong and the watch, no matter how good it is in other ways, will probably not find an audience.
As important as the face is to a contemporary model, they are, if anything, even more, critical with vintage pieces. Experts reckon anywhere between 80%-90% of the value of classic replica watches resides in the condition of its dial. Even the smallest differences can make a difference of thousands of dollars.
Interestingly, for companies like Rolex, it was only in 2000 that they introduced their own dial internally. That was the year they acquired the dedicated manufacturer, or carrier, Beyeler, one of a number of firms the brand had contracted to make their dials over the years.
As you would expect, crafting such an important part of the watch is a highly involved mix of science and art. Read on below to find out just what it takes. With just a handful of exceptions, all of Rolex’s dials are made from brass. Strong, hardwearing, and easily machinable, it is the perfect material for the job.
If it is to be a simple block colored face, which is achieved with a lacquer coating. For metallic shades, like gold, silver, or rhodium, the blanks are put through an electroplating process. And for some colors, PVD or Physical Vapor Deposition is also used.
If there is to be a decorative pattern added, Rolex employs a rotary pantograph. The machine carves out the desired form on a big model of the finished dial, and the design is transferred mechanically onto the real thing sitting alongside a diamond-tipped engraving tool. The brand has five such devices that are old enough to be called antiques and updated with the latest computerized modules.
The only time fake Rolex departs from using brass is on some of the very particular and rare dials. Anyone who is destined to be paved with gemstones is made from 18k yellow gold, as the softer metal makes setting easier. Moreover, the men’s models with meteorite dials have no need for the underlying brass base, as they are basically a thin sheet of iron. Strangely, on the ladies’ meteor models, a plate is used, with the material applied on top.